There are certain cookery skills that form the basis of all dishes. These basic skills, combined with good ingredients and the application of heat are all that is needed to achieve great cooking. Take a soufflé, for example. You can spend hours whisking egg whites and buttering the dishes, but if your basic white sauce is wrong the dish just won’t succeed. However, with current food trends changing at such a pace and chefs constantly trying to reinvent the wheel, these essential kitchen skills can sometimes get overlooked.

If there is one thing I’ve learnt from my time presenting Saturday Kitchen, it’s that we should never stop listening or learning. While this means being open to exciting new techniques and methods, it also means taking the time to step backwards and perfect the basics, to get the essential skills right, because these underpin everything else you cook. Letting other people share their knowledge and wisdom with you is also key to becoming a better cook. I’ve had the honour and privilege of meeting many brilliant chefs, from Daniel Boulud, with his three Michelin stars, to my true friend Michel Roux Senior, one of the world’s greatest chefs. Working alongside people like this, you quickly get an insight into what is happening in the world of food, and they have taught me a lot. And perhaps the ultimate compliment is when a great chef has learnt something from me: for example, if they place one of my dishes on their menu. (As a result, I now have Michel Roux’s restaurant menu up on the wall in my loo, but please don’t tell him!) It just goes to show that, no matter how old or accomplished you are, there is always something more you can learn.

So with this in mind, I’ve considered the many skills, techniques and bits of knowledge that I’ve picked up throughout my career and have gathered the best of them together for you in this book. Inside these covers you will find the very basics, including step-by-step instructions for filleting fish, jointing chicken and mastering that classic white sauce. I also share the best recipes and nuggets of information that I’ve absorbed during my travels around the world, including a recipe for the most delicious pasta sauce that I tasted in Naples and some amazing grissini sticks that I ate in Venice, whilst others stay true to my love for British food, such as Arbroath smokies (my food heaven) blended into a pâté and served with warm toasts.

Over the last decade, I’ve watched the food and ingredients we use in this country change a lot, with specialist and exotic ingredients now much more readily available. I’ve also learnt that it’s amazing to find what is right on your doorstep when you go out and look for it, with some really excellent local produce available to us. Sadly, many local producers and farmers are going out of business, due to a lack of knowledge about their ingredients, as well as the importation of cheap foreign food. I firmly believe that there is no such thing as food that is cheap and good. You get for what you pay for. That’s not to say it needs to be stupidly expensive, but British beef is worth the extra cost because it tastes brilliant, and the same goes for seasonal strawberries and fresh seafood; these are the luxuries of living where we do. So not only should we be reinforcing our basic cooking skills, we should also be looking after our suppliers and producers by giving them our custom – because once they are gone, the void will be a long time filled and our cooking won’t be as successful.

Learning from the experience of other people is perhaps the best way to become a better cook, so I hope that Masterclass will equip you with the essential kitchen skills, and give you more confidence in the kitchen. To all the chefs and foodie people who have taught me something along the way, thank you, and to those who I will meet in the future, I look forward to tasting your food and listening to your stories.

James

CHAPTER 1
SOUPS, STEWS & PIES

CREAM OF CAULIFLOWER SOUP

LEEK AND ROCKET SOUP WITH GOAT’S CHEESE

PISTOU SOUP

CREAM OF TOMATO SOUP WITH ROASTED VINE TOMATOES

MUSHROOM SOUP WITH CORIANDER CRESS

CULLEN SKINK

BEEF MADRAS CURRY

BEEF BOURGUIGNON

COURGETTE, TOMATO AND BASIL PIE WITH DORSTONE CHEESE

JAMES’S SHEPHERD’S PIE

CHICKEN AND WILD MUSHROOM PIE

BEEF SHIN AND CARROT PIES

SALMON AND MUSSEL PIE

SCALLOP AND FENNEL PIES

CHICKEN CURRY

CREAM OF CAULIFLOWER SOUP

The texture of this soup is so velvety; it can be eaten simply as a snack but is also elegant enough for a dinner party. If you want to make it even more sophisticated, you can serve it with seared scallops. The use of curry powder with cauliflower certainly isn’t a new combination – it helps to offset the soup’s richness. The most important thing with this soup, however, is the cooking. You wouldn’t overcook cauliflower normally, so don’t do it when it’s in a soup.

SERVES 4

VEGETARIAN

30g (1¼ oz) butter

1 clove of garlic, peeled and crushed

½ white onion, peeled and diced

225g (8oz) potatoes, peeled and diced

½ tsp mild curry powder

75ml (3fl oz) white wine

750ml (1 pint 6fl oz) vegetable stock

1 large cauliflower, cut into florets

100g (3½ oz) diced leek (white part only)

2 slices of white bread (crusts removed), cut into cubes

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling

200ml (7fl oz) double cream

Salt and black pepper

1. Melt the butter in a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat and when it starts to foam, add the garlic and onion and fry, without browning, for 2–3 minutes.

2. Add the potatoes, curry powder, white wine and stock and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes or until the potatoes are tender. Add the cauliflower and leek and simmer for a further 6–8 minutes or until the cauliflower is just cooked.

3. Meanwhile, place a small frying pan over a high heat and sauté the bread in the olive oil for 2–3 minutes or until browned, then drain on kitchen paper and set aside.

4. Pour the cream into the saucepan and bring back up to the boil, then remove from the heat and allow to cool for 2–3 minutes. Transfer the contents of the pan to a food processor or blender and purée until smooth. Pour the soup back into the pan and gently bring to a simmer, then season with salt and pepper.

5. Divide between bowls, then sprinkle with the croûtons, drizzle with olive oil and serve immediately.

LEEK AND ROCKET SOUP WITH GOAT’S CHEESE

This classic combination of flavours is a favourite of many. It’s important to pay close attention to the cooking time because if you cook the soup for too long you will lose the flavours and the colour. This soup is also good served cold, but it may be a good idea to add a little more liquid, as the texture tends to change and thicken as it cools. I like to use Mrs Wecksby’s goat’s cheese, or Perroche goat’s cheese from Neal’s Yard, but any other soft goat’s cheese will do fine too.

SERVES 4

VEGETARIAN

1–2 tbsp olive oil

1 large potato, peeled and cut into small dice

1 white onion, peeled and roughly chopped

1 sprig of thyme

2 leeks, trimmed and chopped

1 litre (1¾ pints) vegetable stock

150ml (5fl oz) double cream

100g (3½oz) rocket leaves

Salt and black pepper

TO SERVE

200g (7oz) soft goat’s cheese

1 sprig of chervil, chopped

1. Place a heavy-based pan over a medium heat, pour in the olive oil and add the potato, onion and thyme, then sauté, without browning, for 2–3 minutes. Add the leeks and cook for 1 further minute. Pour in the stock and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 10 minutes.

2. Pour in the cream and bring back up to the boil, then remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly. Pour the soup into a blender and pulse until smooth, then add the rocket leaves and pulse again. Transfer the soup back into the pan and gently bring to a simmer, then season with salt and pepper.

3. Divide the soup between bowls, crumble over the goat’s cheese, garnish with the chervil and serve.

PISTOU SOUP

A great classic soup with pesto added right at the end, this is easy to make and nice as a starter or a simple snack. It’s definitely a summer soup and you should always use the very best fresh summer vegetables to give maximum colour and flavour. I mix and match the pasta, as it’s a good way to use up broken or leftover bits. The best pistou soup I have come across was in Nice. Not surprising when you consider that the ingredients in its famous Niçoise salad are pretty similar to the ingredients for pistou.

SERVES 6–8

11 plum tomatoes

100g (3½oz) frozen broad beans

4 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, peeled and chopped

2 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped

1 leek, trimmed and diced

2 carrots, peeled and diced

2 courgettes, topped, tailed and diced

2 potatoes, peeled and diced

1 x 250g can of haricot beans, drained and rinsed

75g (3oz) dried spaghetti

75g (3oz) French beans, topped and tailed and cut into 4 pieces

100g (3½oz) frozen peas

Salt and black pepper

1 handful of basil leaves, to garnish

FOR THE PISTOU

60g (2½oz) fresh basil leaves

4 cloves of garlic, peeled

1 skinned, deseeded and chopped tomato (reserved from step 5)

75g (3oz) grated Parmesan cheese

135ml (4½fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil

1. Score a cross in the bottom of each tomato, place in a bowl and cover with boiling water. Leave for 45 seconds, then drain and peel off the skin. Cut the tomatoes into quarters, remove the seeds and chop the flesh. Blanch the broad beans for 2–3 minutes in boiling water, then refresh in cold water and peel off the skins.

2. Place a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat, add the olive oil and all the chopped and diced vegetables except the tomatoes and fry, without browning, for 4–5 minutes.

3. Add the haricot beans, fill with enough water to cover, and bring to the boil.

4. Meanwhile, wrap the spaghetti in a clean tea towel and crush it on the edge of a worktop, pressing it backwards and forwards to break it into small pieces, then add these to the soup.

5. Add all but one of the chopped tomatoes (reserving this last one for the pistou), bring back up to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes or until the pasta is cooked. After 10–11 minutes, add the French beans, broad beans and peas. (It’s best to add these at the end of cooking in order to preserve their fresh colour.)

6. While the soup is cooking, place all the pistou ingredients in a blender and purée to a paste.

7. Remove the soup from the heat and stir in the pistou. Season well with salt and pepper and serve straight away.

CREAM OF TOMATO SOUP WITH ROASTED VINE TOMATOES

It was tomatoes that got me interested in food in the first place; as a kid, the smell of them growing in my grandad’s greenhouse intoxicated me. I still love them so much and the first thing I did when I last moved house was to build my own greenhouse in which to grow them. Every time I open the door the smell sends me back 30 years. For this soup, the tomatoes must be the best you can get, and vine tomatoes are ideal because they are usually the freshest.

SERVES 4

VEGETARIAN

1.5kg (3lb 4oz) vine tomatoes

100g (3½oz) butter

½ large onion, peeled and chopped

3 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped

1 stick of celery, trimmed and chopped

2 tbsp tomato ketchup

2 tbsp tomato purée

1 sprig of thyme

200ml (7fl oz) double cream, plus extra to serve (optional)

Salt and black pepper

FOR THE ROASTED VINE TOMATOES

4 bunches of 3–4 small vine tomatoes

2–3 tbsp olive oil

1 tbsp balsamic vinegar

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas 6.

2. Remove the 1.5kg (3lb 4oz) of tomatoes from the vines and chop each tomato into 6, keeping the vines.

3. Melt half the butter in a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat, then add the onion, tomatoes, garlic and celery. Add the ketchup and tomato purée, cover with a lid and bring to the boil.

4. Strip the thyme leaves from the stalks and add the leaves to the pan, reduce the heat to a simmer, then place the vines from the tomatoes on the top, cover with the lid and simmer for 15 minutes. (Be careful not to let it boil, as the vegetables may catch on the bottom of the pan.)

5. Meanwhile, place the 4 bunches of small vine tomatoes (keeping them on the vines) on a baking tray, drizzle with the olive oil and the vinegar, season with salt and pepper and roast in the oven for 5–6 minutes or until softened.

6. Remove the lid from the saucepan, discard the vines and pour in the cream. Remove from the heat, transfer to a blender and pulse until smooth, then pass though a sieve to remove the tomato seeds. Pour the soup back into the pan and reheat gently, trying not to let it boil, then season well with salt and pepper.

7. Serve the soup with a bunch of roasted vine tomatoes in the bottom of each bowl and, if you like, a spoonful of cream swirled on top of the soup.

MUSHROOM SOUP WITH CORIANDER CRESS

I remember going mushroom picking in the New Forest when I was a junior chef. The head chef said it was an inspiring exercise – looking back now, I can see his point, but I also reckon it was cheap forced labour! Fast forward 20 years however, and I’m still doing it. Most recently I went with Nick Nairn up in Scotland. Rowing across the loch on our way to find mushrooms, neither of us exactly looked like Captain Jack Sparrow, but the treasure we came back with was much better than pirate gold – delicious fresh wild mushrooms with a great intense flavour.

SERVES 4

1kg (2lb 3oz) field mushrooms

100ml (3½fl oz) rapeseed oil

2 large shallots, peeled and chopped

2 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped

Juice of ½ lemon

500ml (18fl oz) chicken stock

250ml (9fl oz) double cream

125g (4½oz) butter, diced

250g (9oz) mixed wild mushrooms (such as chanterelle, cep, trompette, girolle or oyster)

5g (¼oz) chervil, chopped

50g (2oz) coriander cress or micro salad leaves

Salt and black pepper

1. Remove the stalks from the field mushrooms and, using a spoon, scrape away and discard the dark gills, then cut the mushrooms into slices about 5mm (¼ in) thick.

2. Place a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat, pour in half the rapeseed oil, then add the shallots and garlic and cook for 1–2 minutes or until softened. Add the sliced mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, and cook for 3–4 minutes.

3. Stir in the lemon juice then pour in the stock, bring to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer gently for 10 minutes.

4. Transfer the contents of the pan into a blender and whizz to a smooth purée – this should take a good 2–3 minutes. Pour back into the pan, add the cream and mix thoroughly. Gently warm over a low heat, then stir in the diced butter, adjust the seasoning, if needed, and keep warm on the hob.

5. Pour the remainder of the oil into a frying pan over a medium heat and sauté the mixed wild mushrooms for about 3 minutes or until cooked through, then season and set aside.

6. To serve, divide the cooked wild mushrooms between bowls, ladle over the soup and sprinkle with the chervil and coriander cress or micro salad leaves.

CULLEN SKINK

This Scottish soup from the town of Cullen in Moray is one of those great classic soups, with most of its flavour provided by the main ingredient – smoked haddock. Traditionally, it should be made with Finnan Haddie, which is smoked haddock from Findon near Aberdeen, but any other natural smoked haddock will do.

SERVES 4

2 Arbroath Smokies

75g (3oz) unsalted butter

2 banana shallots, peeled and finely chopped

100g (3½oz) diced leek (white part only)

2 cloves of garlic, peeled and finely chopped

200g (7oz) waxy boiled potatoes, peeled

1 litre (1¾ pints) fish stock

100ml (3½fl oz) white wine

200ml (7fl oz) milk

125ml (4½fl oz) double cream

Black pepper

2 tsp chopped chives, to garnish

1. Remove the skin and bones from the fish and flake the flesh.

2. Melt a third of the butter in a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat, then add the shallots, leek and garlic. Cover the pan with a lid and sweat, without browning, for 5–10 minutes.

3. Cut the potatoes into 2cm (¾ in) dice and add to the vegetables, together with three-quarters of the flaked fish (reserving the remaining quarter for later). Cover again with the lid and cook for a further 2 minutes, then pour in the stock and wine. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 8 minutes.

4. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly before carefully transferring the mixture to a blender. Whizz for a few seconds, then add the milk and cream, a little at a time, and blend for 4–5 minutes or until the mixture is very smooth, then pass through a sieve into a clean pan.

5. Gently reheat then add the remaining fish and butter and season well with pepper. Divide between bowls, scatter over the chopped chives and serve with some warm crusty bread.

BEEF MADRAS CURRY

I think India should be on everybody’s list of places to visit, to experience the amazing range of foods and the many different people who live there. This curry takes its name from the city of Madras, in the south of India. It can be made with most meats or it can also be vegetarian. As with most Indian dishes, there were many variations but this was my favourite, from a small café and just served with flatbread. I had the recipe translated into English so that you can enjoy it as much as I did.

SERVES 4–6

800g (1¾ lb) stewing beef, cut into 2.5cm (1in) dice

4–5 tbsp vegetable oil

1 green chilli, deseeded and chopped

1 clove of garlic, peeled and chopped

2cm (¾ in) piece of root ginger, peeled and chopped

1 onion, peeled and finely sliced

12 curry leaves

3 cardamon pods, crushed

2 bay leaves

1 x 400g can of chopped tomatoes

200ml (7fl oz) beef stock

3 tbsp tamarind paste

25g (1oz) butter

25g (1oz) flat-leaf parsley, chopped

Salt and black pepper

1. For the madras curry powder, place all of the whole spices in a spice grinder or coffee grinder, or use a pestle and mortar, and grind to a fine powder, then mix with the ground turmeric and vegetable oil.

2. Next, season the beef all over with salt and pepper. Heat 1–2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in a large, non-stick saucepan and, over a high heat, sear roughly a third or a half of the beef pieces for 1–2 minutes or until golden brown. Fry the rest of the beef in 1–2 more batches, removing each batch from the pan when the meat is browned and placing it on a plate while you fry the remaining pieces, adding more oil as needed.

3. Blend the chilli, garlic and ginger to a paste using a hand-held blender or a pestle and mortar and adding a splash of water if necessary.

4. Place the pan used to seal the beef back over a high heat, add 1–2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil and the onion and fry for 5 minutes or until softened and starting to brown. Add 3½ tablespoons of the curry powder, along with the chilli, garlic and ginger paste, the curry leaves, cardamom and bay leaves, then stir the mixture well.

FOR THE MADRAS CURRY POWDER

2 tbsp coriander seeds

2 tbsp fenugreek seeds

1 tbsp black mustard seeds

1 tsp cumin seeds

½ tsp fennel seeds

1 tsp black peppercorns

1 cinnamon stick

5 cloves

1 tbsp ground turmeric

2 tbsp vegetable oil

FOR THE FRIED SHALLOTS

3 shallots, peeled and finely sliced

2 tbsp plain flour

100ml (3½fl oz) vegetable oil

5. Tip in the beef and cover with the chopped tomatoes, stock and tamarind paste, then season with salt and pepper. Cover the pan with a lid and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 2 hours or until the beef is very tender. Alternatively, cook in the oven, preheated to 140C° (275°F), Gas 1, for 2 hours, or in a slow cooker for 3–4 hours.

6. For the fried shallots, first dust the shallots in the flour. Place a frying pan over a high heat, pour in the vegetable oil and fry the shallots for 2–3 minutes or until crisp and golden brown. Remove from the oil and drain on kitchen paper.

7. Remove the lid from the curry pan, stir in the butter and chopped parsley and season to taste. Spoon the beef on to plates with some of the crispy shallots on top and serve with some plain boiled rice on the side.

BEEF BOURGUIGNON

Classic dishes shouldn’t be messed about with. Beef bourguignon is one of those classics and this recipe has come via the long road from my training days in France. In between the pints of French bière I got a lot of practice at dishes like hake beurre blanc, duck gizzards salads and lemon tarts, and of course this one. It’s still exactly the same as it was back then, just as it should be.

SERVES 4

2 tbsp plain flour

1kg (2lb 3oz) braising steak, cut into 2.5cm (1in) dice

4–5 tbsp olive oil

150g (5oz) pancetta, cut into small chunks

Bepul matn qismi tugadi. Ko'proq o'qishini xohlaysizmi?